Hazel Findlay su Magic Line. Foto: Jacopo Larcher. Fonte: H. Findlay/instagram

La trentenne climber britannica supera una delle fessure di arrampicata trad più difficili al mondo

Nel suo ultimo giorno  e al quarto tentativo della giornata, la climber britannica Hazel Findlay ha risolto il suo super-progetto autunnale a Vernal Falls, in Yosemite ripetendo in libera “Magic Line”.

La fessura di 35 metri è stata aperta da Ron Kauk nel 1996, con le protezioni pre-posizionate. 20 anni dopo, suo figlio Lonnie realizzò la prima ripetizione della via, molto tecnica, nello stesso stile del padre (con le proteioni pre-posizionate).  Lo scorso autunno, Lonnie ha salito la via piazzando tutte le protezioni; da quel momento, Hazel si è interessata al percorso, decidendo di farlo diventare il suo obiettivo per il 2019.

Dopo un intenso allenamento estivo, due cadute vicino all’obiettivo e dopo aver rotto una presa chiave,  la trentenne climber inglese ha realizzato il suo sogno.

 

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Yesterday I got to the last hard move on Magic Line and for half a moment I didn’t climb quite at my best, which was enough to spit me off. All at once I was heartbroken to have missed my chance and also more than excited to have got that far from the ground placing all the gear. At the rest before the final crux I reminded myself that although I didn’t know if I would do it or not, this unknown was not only OK but it was precisely why I was here. I was the only person responsible for what would happen in the next few minutes; it was entirely in my control and yet the outcome completely unknown. I just didn’t know what would happen. But the magic is in the not-knowing. How boring would climbing be if you always knew you were going to do it? – – It felt amazing to finally be at the upper crux on the lead having got through the nails lower crux. Who knows how many burns my finger will let me have before my season here is over but even if I don’t send this year I’m more than psyched to have got this far and know that a route this demanding is possible for me. This video was taken the session before by @babsizangerl Thanks @angus.kille for the belay 😍 @blackdiamond @seatosummitgear @lasportivagram

Un post condiviso da Hazel Findlay (@hazel_findlay) in data: 18 Nov 2019 alle ore 11:42 PST